Most people pack for Iceland as if they were going to the Arctic, and then spend the first morning too hot in the minibus or inside cafes, restaurants and shops. Do not take us wrong, outside it can be days where it is really cold but not for Arctic weather clothing. For much of the season it sits around freezing, often a little above, which is milder than a January day in plenty of places our guests fly in from.
Here is what our guides at North Fantasy suggest, from the base layer up.
If you remember one thing, make it this: a lot of times, in Iceland the wind decides how cold you feel. A still day at minus two can be lovely. A breezy day at plus three, by the sea or on an open plateau, cuts straight through a thick wool coat. So the most useful thing you can own is not the warmest jacket you can find, but an outer layer that stops wind and rain from getting in if you are planning a day outside the city.
The second thing is water. Between waterfall spray, sleet showers and wet ground, something will try to make you damp at some point in the day. Damp is what turns a fresh day into a cold one.
Layers beat bulk because a day tour is a day of changes: warm minibus, windy viewpoint, warm minibus again. You want to be able to take something off in thirty seconds and put it back on just as fast.
Base layer. Thermal top and leggings, in merino wool or a synthetic fabric. This layer does more than any coat, because it keeps your skin dry. Avoid cotton next to the skin: once it is damp, it stays damp.
Mid layer. A fleece or a wool jumper. On a mild day this is the layer you will take off on the bus. On a cold evening it is the one you will be glad you brought.
Outer layer. A thick jacket that is both windproof and waterproof, with a hood. Waterproof trousers, or at least water-resistant ones, are worth packing too, and they pull straight on over whatever you are wearing.
Jeans are the one thing we would gently talk you out of. They are cold when it is windy and slow to dry when they get wet, and there is a good chance they will get wet.
Boots. Waterproof, with a sole that grips. Paths at viewpoints are often gravel, wet rock or packed snow, and trainers are rarely happy on any of them. Many winter visitors also pack a pair of slip-on ice grips: they weigh almost nothing and make icy car parks and paths far easier underfoot from December onwards.
Socks. Wool, and a spare pair in your day bag. Dry socks halfway through a long day are a small luxury.
Gloves. Two pairs if you take photos: thin ones you can work a phone in, and warm ones to pull over the top.
Hat and neck warmer. A warm hat that covers your ears, and a scarf or a tube-style neck warmer you can pull up over your chin when the wind picks up.
On the Northern Lights tour, you are out for three to five hours after dark, and much of that time is spent standing still, looking up. This is the night to wear everything: base layer, mid layer, outer layer, hat and both pairs of gloves. Hand warmers are a nice extra. Between stops you are back in a warm minibus, and the coffee, cocoa or tea comes out of the flask. There is more on how the evening runs in our guide to what to expect on a Northern Lights tour.
On the South Coast, the waterfalls are the thing to dress for. The path around Seljalandsfoss takes you close enough to feel the spray, and Skógafoss throws a fine mist across the whole meadow in front of it. A waterproof jacket and trousers make this the best part of the day instead of the dampest. Down at Reynisfjara the black sand beach can be breezy, so keep your hood handy; your guide will also show you where to stand to enjoy the waves safely.
On the Golden Circle, the wind is usually the story. Þingvellir sits on an open plain and Gullfoss sends spray up out of its canyon, so the outer layer stays on. At Geysir, Strokkur erupts every few minutes, and those minutes standing in the open are when a warm hat earns its place.
The Snæfellsnes day is the longest, ten to twelve hours, and the weather on the peninsula can change several times between Kirkjufell in the north and the sea arches at Arnarstapi in the south. Layers you can take off and put back on in the minibus matter more here than anywhere.
A small backpack is plenty. On a North Fantasy day tour the minibus is never far away, so there is no need to carry everything you own. What is worth having with you:
Your spare socks and second pair of gloves
A refillable water bottle. Icelandic tap water is excellent.
A snack, and some money for lunch on the day tours, where meals are not included
A small power bank. Cold drains phone and camera batteries faster than you expect.
Sunglasses. Low winter sun on wet roads or snow is brighter than it sounds.
Swimwear, if you plan to visit a lagoon or hot pool during your trip.
An umbrella. The wind will have it inside out within minutes.
A huge down coat on its own. Without a waterproof shell it is heavy, and miserable once it is wet.
Several thick jumpers. One good mid layer you can wear on repeat is enough.
If you arrive and realise something is missing, Reykjavík has plenty of outdoor shops and places to rent gear, and it is a small expense for a much more comfortable trip. You are also always welcome to ask us before you travel, and we are happy to provide you with our favourite spots!
Children feel the cold faster when they are standing still, and they are rarely the first to say so. The same three layers apply, with an extra mid layer in the bag and a hat they actually like wearing. In a small group of eight at most, our guides have time to notice when someone needs a few minutes in the warm minibus. Our honest guide to Iceland with children has more on planning a family trip.
Thermal base layers, top and bottom (merino or synthetic, not cotton)
Fleece or wool mid layer
Windproof and waterproof jacket with a hood
Waterproof or water-resistant trousers
Waterproof boots with grip, and slip-on ice grips from December
Wool socks, plus a spare pair
Thin gloves and warm gloves
Warm hat and a neck warmer
Small backpack, water bottle, power bank, sunglasses
Swimwear for a lagoon or hot pool
Get the layers right and an Iceland winter stops being something to cope with.
It becomes the low gold light at midday, empty viewpoints, steam rising off the hot springs and, if the sky is kind, the aurora overhead. Our tours run all winter in small groups of up to eight, with a local guide who knows when to stop, when to wait and when to get everyone back into the warm. You can see the Northern Lights, South Coast, Golden Circle and Snæfellsnes tours on our site, and if you are still deciding how to travel, our piece on small group vs. bus tours may help.
Small group, real Iceland.